The Italian fashion house's Autumn/Winter 2010 collection conjured up visions from a distant yet iconic past.
Exploring the archives, Rosella Jardini came up with the perfect early-to-mid-80s Moschino look, including in the collection long ruffled tiered skirts, bustier frocks, leather skirt suits embellished with metallic elements and studs, gold suits and trench coats, classic logo belts and slogan T-shirts.
A touch of surrealism wasn’t missing: padlocks replaced buttons on leather jackets; keys were used as embellishments; purses were turned into pockets for that perfect Schiaparelli touch (a trick that called back to mind Moschino’s "Dinner Jacket", the iconic piece from his A/W 1989-90 collection that incorporated cutlery pieces instead of pockets) and prints featuring Commedia dell’Arte characters were mixed with Moschino's trademark peace symbols.
All the looks were accessorised with black cowboy hats and big hoop earrings and the latter were also recycled and reinvented as decorations for suits and bags or turned into the hoops of spiral notebook-shaped clutches.
In a way, it was only natural to reintroduce such designs since the A/W catwalk show also coincided with the birthday of the late Italian designer and ended up being a sort of tribute of some of the best Franco Moschino stereotypes.
During the 80s, while Armani & Co. were more focused on exploring the possibilities of power dressing, Moschino tried to inject irony and humour into his designs, creating a parallel fashion universe populated by chicly and elegantly dressed women who didn't seem to take themselves too seriously.
Moschino's parody and critique of fashion was better explored by the designer himself in the pictures collected in the volume " To be, or not to be, that's fashion!" published in 1988 by Idea Books.
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